1701 p

[Doc Sharptail]

That thing IS wickedly accurate, isn't it?... How long is the tube, btw?




I agree 100% with you on the Benjamin gauge.... I just got one from Eric for my next project and I'm already liking it more than the the Disco gauge - and I haven't even had air in it yet!




Cheers,
Todd

13 1/2"- 14" would be my best w.a.g... there ain't a lot there to begin with. I briefly considered removing the filter media for the volume gain, but I don't think it would make that much difference. I'm not too sure what holds the check rod back from the tube either- might be the filter?

Regards,

Doc Sharptail

[Doc Sharptail]

Tried it out in the packer stock the other night. Yes, that's an AR-20-78 peep aboard. Flat topped scope rail on this gun makes such changes easy.



Stock front sight blade/pin was much too short to use with that high rise rear. Trimmed up a "pop" rivet by cutting off the rivet ring from the sleeve, and cutting the shaft to appropriate length...
Sleeve is a perfect fit in the sight pin hole.



There's what it looks like assembled.



The 2 apparent fliers were actually getting that big peep dialed in. 3 at center of tin attest to the gun's grouping ability at 12 Meters with the polymag predators. Off-hand, kneeling, with my left hand under the p/g. Still can't quite bring myself to the vulgarity of using the tube as a fore-arm...
Rubber eye-cup over the peep is a huge boost on target concentration- one of those neat things that must be experienced to be fully appreciated.



At 470ish fps, the predators loose steam rapidly, passing through the shot hardened pellet tin lid- that's as far as they made it, with minor denting of the back (bottom) of the tin.


I am of the opine that set up like that, I'd have a good early season grouse taker- even at 470 fps, those preds would snipe the heads cleanly on close in birds. I think the only improvement I'd make is to blacken that front sight pin somehow. Heck, I'd even consider the 8.2 Meisters for the task, since they group so cleanly- head shots only...

Base platform of this pistol has a ton of modding potential, and a lot of finding out to do, on my part.

Regards,

Doc Sharptail

[Doc Sharptail]

I've had this pistol about a month now.

Bbl is very pellet fussy. So far, all it seems to like is the Meisters in the 8.2 gr configuration...



Hydraulic ram collet marks left on the bbl, about an inch or so behind the muzzle. There's another set of marks like this 180 degrees on the opposite side of bbl. Orientation of those marks is on near perfect horizontal with the transfer port inlet hole pointing downwards.

Just kind of curious what others are finding with their L/W bbls, and pellet selection.
However impressed I am with the Meisters, I'd really like to move a bit beyond wadcutters. It's too bad the 10.1 gr ultra mags shoot so poorly in this bbl.

I really should sit down some cool breeze day, and go through all the .177 fodder that I have- there's still quite a bit to try in it yet.

I'll sometime in the next little while try and figure out a way to get that tight shooting 24" XX .177 bbl I have aboard. I have an idea for a sleeve tube with a standard t/p on top that shouldn't be that hard to accomplish.

Further thoughts include a 13 ci bottle regulated, if I can somehow find a tank block for it- other wise, buy another 22-40, and start from the ground up all over again... BUT!!! I like the configuration of the 1701-P a lot better- a better all around platform to tankarize...

Regards,

Doc Sharptail

[Gippeto]

Had a close look at the barrel on mine...no such marks. Looks like a lathe chuck jaw to me.....

Mine was initially somewhat fussy, and did not group to expected potential...re-worked both ends and seems to like pretty much anything I feed it now...very close call as to what shoots best, very slight edge to the 10.3 JSB still. Have yet to order any Meisters....need to get on that.

Al

[Doc Sharptail]

Had a close look at the barrel on mine...no such marks. Looks like a lathe chuck jaw to me.....

Mine was initially somewhat fussy, and did not group to expected potential...re-worked both ends and seems to like pretty much anything I feed it now...very close call as to what shoots best, very slight edge to the 10.3 JSB still. Have yet to order any Meisters....need to get on that.

Al

Not entirely sure about the marks being lathe chuck marks- if they are, it's a 2-jaw

Those look almost like roll-over crimp die marks- seen very similar on high tensile hydraulic hose end fittings. She coulda skidded a bit too, during boring. I probably have the deep-end cut off here.

I'll keep an eye out for the 10.3 JSB's. Somewhere in my travels, I've seen Cr FT domes in boxes marked .177. Must be Cabela's.

Still can't get over the groups I'm getting with the yellow tin meisters, and yes, they're going fast. Not a huge problem here as Wholesale Sports still have a sleeve or 6 in stock...

Gun doesn't like the 2900 psi it's supposed to be factory tuned for- I'm getting partial valve lock burps and hiccups that high. 2400-2500 seems to be the sweet spot for this pistol...

Regards,

Doc Sharptail

[Gippeto]

Or possibly a four jaw chuck? Still off kilter if that's the case.

Can't quite figure the marks at any rate...in the pic they look to have been made after the barrel was blued...which makes no sense. Muzzle crown on mine was blued....yours?

Al

[Doc Sharptail]

I can't remember if the cut part of the crown is blued, or not. My a-keys are in the shop, so it'll be monday before I can get the brake off to look again...

From what I've read, L/W still uses "Eagle Eye" line of sight for bbl straightening. I had originally thought those marks had something to do with the way the bbl was choked.

Regards,

Doc Sharptail

[Gippeto]

This is how barrels are straightened....

barrelstraightening.jpg

About all I can figure, is that someone goofed while chucking the barrel to crown (while there are self centering 4 jaw chucks, this is HIGHLY unlikely)....but if the crown is blued and the marks are not???????

[Doc Sharptail]

You'd a-thunk by now there'd be some sort of digital aligning system for straightening bbls, but maybe for some things, old school is just better...



Factory cut crown has been blued on the machined area. This is almost the cleanest looking factory crowning job I've seen.

For those that are still fence-sitting, a few more pix to show the differences between the 22-XX system, and the 'Rod system...



XX .177 bbl at top, L/W .177 bbl below. From what I've seen on the Crosman site, the P-Rod bbl's are cut the same way at the transfer port inlet.



Think I've found why the L/W bbl won't shoot the ultra mags. L/W at left, XX at right. She appears to be shaving the skirts on the thicker waisted pellets. Bit of a knife edge there to be cleaned up at the start of the leade. Inner step to the rifling is just barely visible in this so-so photo. It looks very clean under the loupe and good strong light...

Without access to a lathe here, I'm none too sure how much of this clean-up I can take on. I suppose I could chuck it up in the drill press, and turn it against a soft compound pad wheel by hand.



Pellet probe differences: XX .177 SBK steel breech and bolt at top. The "P" probe is much longer, and seats the pellet well ahead of the transfer port hole.

I did get the 24" XX .177 bbl aboard. I even shot it a bit.



Ten of the Crosman 10.1 gr Ultra-mags from rest at 12 Meters. 4-12X A/O Banner @ 6X. I yanked that loner at lower left. My tube experiment worked, but I think it was a little long. Shot that quick group, and then took it all off. I was a little bit concerned about warping the aluminum breech. That is definitely going to get re-visited when I have a bit more time on my hands. Work is shaping up to be a bit of a bear for the rest of the week, so it's gonna be a little while yet. Looks very good from this end, though.

Regards,

Doc Sharptail