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Thread: First attempt at rust bluing...with house hold "chemicals".

  1. #11
    Member Gippeto's Avatar
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    I'm certainly believing that it does.



    Al

  2. #12
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    Hi Al.
    Could you please post a more step by step list of how to use your solution?
    I got a .25 cal barrel from you last year and would like to blue it. What method is used to prep the barrel? D you plug the bore or does it get blued too? What is carding?
    Thanks. Red.


    Quote Originally Posted by Gippeto View Post
    Thank you Sean. :)


    Pickling the part with muriatic, then rinse and dry.

    Solution is 2oz 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/2 tsp white vinegar and enough sea salt to achieve a saturated solution. New solution each day. Peroxide is a darn good oxidizer. ;)

    The peroxide with just a hint of HCL works good as a dip...makes nice fuzzy rust in no time. Have to keep rotating the part if you want even coverage.

    Ambient humidity seems sufficient thus far, still might want a "damp" box.

    Have noticed that if I card and re apply the solution while the part is still hot, the rust forms almost instantly...kind of a chocolate brown.

    Thanks for the tip re ph of the boil water...hadn't read anything about that...will play with it.

    Have a couple bottles of Laurel Mountain barrel brown coming...should be here this coming week.

    Al

  3. #13
    Member Gippeto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redlock View Post
    Hi Al.
    Could you please post a more step by step list of how to use your solution?
    I got a .25 cal barrel from you last year and would like to blue it. What method is used to prep the barrel? D you plug the bore or does it get blued too? What is carding?
    Thanks. Red.
    Hi Red,

    Doing a copy and paste here...posted this over on the Yellow...

    Barrel should be sanded as fine as you want...sand along the length of the part. Some folks say finer than 320 grit is a waste of time...others disagree. Either way, the part needs to be absolutely squeaky clean with not a trace of oil anywhere. A good scrub down with acetone seems to be the norm...handle with gloves only from this point on.

    Laurel Mountain Forge makes a barrel brown solution that cuts through a small amount of oil...allowing handling by hand. Good product, and available from Track of the Wolf. Keeping things grease free is still your best bet. When the part is "clean", water will not bead but rather sheet off.

    The rust bluing solution is applied to the surface with a bit cotton rag (what I use) VERY sparingly...just enough to dampen the surface, it should not run.

    Then it is allowed to form a layer of rust. Some folks hang the pieces in a room with higher humidity (bathroom), some folks use a humidity box. Once the surface has a coating of red iron oxide, it's time to convert that red iron oxide to black iron oxide.

    I use a vertical conversion tank. With barrels, I plug the muzzle and suspend the barrel from the breech end. I don't boil the parts per se...I boil the distilled water in a kettle and pour it into a piece of 2" abs pipe with a cap cemented on to it. Insert the barrel leaving the transfer port still out of the water and leave it a few minutes.

    A good idea to make sure the kettle holds enough water to fill the pipe.

    Pull the part out and dry it off..let cool slightly...it'll be black now if all is well. Card off the loose black iron oxide with a piece of old denim or DEGREASED 0000 steel wool...rub HARD. Take as much off as you can.

    Repeat the process, maintaining faith.(the hard part) The color will deepen with repeated cycles...usually takes 3 cycles before it's easy to see. Keep going...I usually end up doing 12 cycles.

    When you've reached a point where you're happy with the color, give the barrel a good scrub down with baking soda and hot tap water...then dry.

    While the barrel is still hot, rub it down with a good paste wax...let it dry. Buff the heck out of it, re apply the wax and buff it again. Don't need power equipment, elbow grease is adequate. The wax will fill any open pores in the finish and add a bit of shine. Doesn't show finger prints either.

    Small note, as I do things, from the transfer port to the breech end of the barrel does not get blued...I do not apply solution there either. Not an issue for me when it's hidden by the receiver.

    A pretty basic rundown, but should give you some idea of the process. Suggest doing some research and playing with a piece of scrap or such first.


    Should answer some questions...post 'em if you got 'em, and I'll check back. Not a "pro" by any means, but I'm learning.

    Some links;



    Al

  4. #14
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    Thanks a lot Al that was a good explanation, but 12 coats? Really? When I worked in a sheet metal factory the iridite line was lower, lift, slop repeat and dry.
    Hmm, my patience isn't at an all time high right now (by a long way) so maybe I'll wait. Still, I appreciate the explanation.
    Red.

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