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Thread: Crosman 2240/1377 Grip Modification

  1. #1

    Crosman 2240/1377 Grip Modification

    Crosman 2240/1377 Grip panel modification

    The first contact you make with your pistol is on the cheap plastic grip panels. Well, not that cheap if you have to replace them, but, cheaper than the custom grip panels that are available to buy. You can spend as much as you did for the pistol to get better grip panels or you could improve the function of the existing plastic grip panels. I have read some reviews where 2240 and 1377 owners have complained of loose grip panels. People write that they tried tightening the screws without any improvement.

    This design “flaw” keeps pistol owners, with a screwdriver, from being able to break their grip panels. The down side is a wobbly grip condition caused by a part of the panel molding, called a post, being too tall.
    Pic #12240 grips 001.jpg
    The screws run through the posts that stop the panels from being over-tightened to the point of breaking. However, the panels pivot on the posts, causing a loose hold on the pistol. To tighten your hold on the pistol you need to tighten the panels on the grip frame.

    With the flat of a knife against the grip frame edges, you can see that the edges of the frame are the same height as the post stops (or lugs).
    Pic #22240 grips 003.jpg
    You will see that the corresponding edges of the grip panels themselves are lower than the height of the posts. In other words, the posts are taller than the edges of the panels that meet up with the grip frame.
    Pic #32240 grips 004.jpg

    Using a chip of cinder block (he he he), a file, heavy grit sandpaper, or, the like, you can reduce the height of the posts to the level of the grip panel edges, or a little below. I use a 3/8 inch paddle bit to cut the posts down because it leaves a fairly flat, clean edge on the posts.
    Pic #42240 grips 005.jpg

    There are also three contact points between the grip frame and grip panels that have large gaps. These gaps also encourage movement of the grip panels on the grip frame.
    Pic #52240 grips 016.jpg
    They are easy to fill with a touch of silicone adhesive/sealer or other glue. If you lightly moisten the metal grip frame with oil (anything from cooking oil to motor oil) and place the adhesive/sealer on the grip panels you should be able to separate them later. I used no oil and the silicone sealer separated from the metal frame with no effort and remained on the plastic panels.
    Pic #62240 grips 007.jpg
    Use just a drop or two of adhesive/sealer at the two sharp corners and the locating nub to fill the gaps. Let the adhesive set up a bit and then affix the grip panels being sure the sealer fills the offending gaps. Wait a day or so for the “glue” to harden, then take the grip panels off the frame gently or just leave the panels in place. There is really not much reason to remove the left panel at all.

    That alone should help stop the panels from shifting on the frame. However, if you want even more grip panel security and have a hankering to spend some more money on the project, you can change the screws and contact points. To go the extra mile you would need to buy something like 0.175 inch ID and 0.32 inch OD o-rings, a couple of 0.195 inch ID and 0.45 inch OD brass or other suitable washers and replace the factory screws with stainless steel or other machine screws.
    Pic#72240 grips 015.jpg
    The machine screws will have flat edges to press against the washers. The washers help distribute the pressure of the screw heads over a larger area and will stop the o-rings from squishing out of the inlets cut into the grip panels.

    So you can buy and install a steel breech; you can crown the barrel; you can buy and install a fancy adjustable trigger spring; but, if every time you hold the pistol it shifts in your hand, what have you gained?

    As always, the above information invalidates all warranties, expressed or otherwise, and is written for entertainment purposes only and should never be tried at home as it may be illegal, lethal or possibly damage your gun. Not to mention, you could shoot somebody’s eye out. The good news is that I post with public domain rights to reprint. Copy left with no Copyright!

    Shoot smart, shoot safely,
    Poor-man Plinker

  2. #2
    Senior Member SeanMP's Avatar
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    Very nice thread. Some good how to here

    I just moved it over to the subject it deserves
    Sean

  3. #3
    Member DocGadget's Avatar
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    Would this work on the shoulder stock (1399) too? I find they move more (probably having more leverage?) than the pistol grips.

  4. #4
    Sean,
    I can tell you are a kind, understanding and compasaionate guy. If my posts deserve to be taken seriously or not is a matter of opinion. I do not mind being the class clown and I am totally out of my league here. However, I do not mind you-all bearing the brunt of my learning how to: use my camera; transfer data to forums (Why did my table disintegrate when transfered in the 1077 mag mod post?); operate the internet and; maybe develop some actual spread sheets and graphs (which I have never done).
    I have to start somewhere, and, you can blame admin. that I am here. I am not a machinest and don't have squat for tools (MIG, TIG, NCR huh?) or supplies (copper hobby shop tubing? ha ha ha). My focus is toward the first time owner with limited experience and resources who wants a better mousetrap. I really have nothing of much value to offer your members. So, even I think, my posts should be located in the joke section. If someone finds them through the "tags" (whatever that means) then bully for them.
    Ironically, when I get good at this I will take the Poor-man Plinker platform to a site that caters to the types of users it is intended to address. Untill then I guess you either suffer my idiocy or pull the plug! All the same to me.

  5. #5
    Doc,

    I find that the sholder stock has a whole different set of issues. I have not looked at them as closely, however, in the 1389 drawings from Crosman they have three additional parts intended to locate the stock firmly. there is a small pad that fits on the bottom of the grip frame. (Keep layering tape until you get a tight fit?) and there is a spring and plunger in the upper rear of the grip frame, if you wondered why there was an extra whole. At first I put insulating foam in that gap to take up the slack until I discovered the grip frame pad and spring and plunger.

  6. #6
    Member DocGadget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poor-man Plinker View Post
    Doc,

    I find that the sholder stock has a whole different set of issues. I have not looked at them as closely, however, in the 1389 drawings from Crosman they have three additional parts intended to locate the stock firmly. there is a small pad that fits on the bottom of the grip frame. (Keep layering tape until you get a tight fit?) and there is a spring and plunger in the upper rear of the grip frame, if you wondered why there was an extra whole. At first I put insulating foam in that gap to take up the slack until I discovered the grip frame pad and spring and plunger.
    The spring and plunger is only on the 2289. I want to use my shoulder stocks for ALL my 22XX grips framed airguns. I had a very nice wood one made for me and it fits super tight and barely moves, I'll try the tape/pad at the bottom. I hadn't realised it was supposed to contact the frame and it was hangin out so I removed it Now I have to put some new one in... I'll try some padded tape, it should hold better and I shouldn't have to put a bunch of it.

    Thanks for the help. You may think you don't have much to offer but with this single post you just proved yourself wrong. We can all benefit from post like this. Thanks again.

  7. #7
    Ha ha ha Doc,

    Yer a funny guy... they have an expression in Costa Rica: "Si pero no." It means "yes but no." Why do you need to test the memory of an old fart? Yes, the pad 1389-070 was only factory installed in the 2289 (ef'n Crosman parts numbers don't match the gun models), but, no, the spring and plunger (1322-017 and 1389-006 respectively) was in both the 1389 and 2289 drawing. Before you object again - I just checked the Crosman site.

    I have not ordered the spring/plunger, but, I am willing to bet you 20 push-ups that they will fit in the "whole of unknown function" in both the old 2 screw frames and the new 3 screw frames that are mounted on the 22xx and 13xx models. Don't make me look up the frame part numbers for you. You buy the parts and install them and if my guess is wrong, I will drop and give you 20. If you buy them and they fit... hit the floor, dude ha ha ha.

  8. #8
    Member DocGadget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poor-man Plinker View Post
    Ha ha ha Doc,

    Yer a funny guy... they have an expression in Costa Rica: "Si pero no." It means "yes but no." Why do you need to test the memory of an old fart? Yes, the pad 1389-070 was only factory installed in the 2289 (ef'n Crosman parts numbers don't match the gun models), but, no, the spring and plunger (1322-017 and 1389-006 respectively) was in both the 1389 and 2289 drawing. Before you object again - I just checked the Crosman site.

    I have not ordered the spring/plunger, but, I am willing to bet you 20 push-ups that they will fit in the "whole of unknown function" in both the old 2 screw frames and the new 3 screw frames that are mounted on the 22xx and 13xx models. Don't make me look up the frame part numbers for you. You buy the parts and install them and if my guess is wrong, I will drop and give you 20. If you buy them and they fit... hit the floor, dude ha ha ha.
    My bad I tought you had made a typo. I never heard of the 1389. I've only seen 2289's (which is why I have 2 of them).

  9. #9
    Senior Member SeanMP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poor-man Plinker View Post
    Sean,
    I can tell you are a kind, understanding and compasaionate guy. If my posts deserve to be taken seriously or not is a matter of opinion. I do not mind being the class clown and I am totally out of my league here. However, I do not mind you-all bearing the brunt of my learning how to: use my camera; transfer data to forums (Why did my table disintegrate when transfered in the 1077 mag mod post?); operate the internet and; maybe develop some actual spread sheets and graphs (which I have never done).
    I have to start somewhere, and, you can blame admin. that I am here. I am not a machinest and don't have squat for tools (MIG, TIG, NCR huh?) or supplies (copper hobby shop tubing? ha ha ha). My focus is toward the first time owner with limited experience and resources who wants a better mousetrap. I really have nothing of much value to offer your members. So, even I think, my posts should be located in the joke section. If someone finds them through the "tags" (whatever that means) then bully for them.
    Ironically, when I get good at this I will take the Poor-man Plinker platform to a site that caters to the types of users it is intended to address. Untill then I guess you either suffer my idiocy or pull the plug! All the same to me.
    Au contraire mon ami

    This stuff is far more valuable than the silly crap I get into. Seriously, don't sell yourself short.

    There is a fellow over on our sister forum "airgunhome" that goes by the online name of Slavia that has made a rare art of turning scrapyard junk and found objects into fine airrifles....without any fancy tools.

    His lathe is a drill and a dremel tool.
    Sean

  10. #10
    Senior Member sholo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocGadget View Post
    I want to use my shoulder stocks for ALL my 22XX grips framed airguns.
    Hi Doc,

    At the risk of having Poor-man Plinker getting upset at me for hijacking his thread (sorry man!), here is a simple fix I used on a few of my 22xx grip frames. I switched the stock grip screws for some brass ones to add a bit of contrast, and drilled/tapped the bottom of grip frame to 6-32 and used one of the stock (black) grip screws in the bottom of shoulder stock. No more wobbling - solid as a rock! (Don't ask me why I put it on an angle, I just did...)



    Only takes a few minutes and works extremely well!

    Todd
    Todd

    Don't sweat the petty things, and don't pet the sweatty things!

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