I worked on modding the valve today, and drilled the 2260 tube to secure it.... Rather than use the Disco retaining screws, which are of unknown quality, I used some 1/4" long 8-32 low profile SHCSs which are 180,000 psi tensile strength.... I had to shorten them to 3/16" to fit the valve.... Instead of drilling the bottom hole in the 2260 tube out to 5/16", this allowed me to leave it stock, as it was a perfect fit for the screw head.... I drilled matching holes in the sides of the tube using a size "I" letter drill (0.272").... I'm very pleased with the results, and the extra safety margin provided by the high-tensile screws.... They now have a 3:1 safety margin at 3000 psi and are no longer the "weak link" in converting a 2260 tube to a PCP....



I made one of my extended valve front ends to cover the roll-stamped area of the 2260 tube, eliminating that safety concern as well.... Although I plan to run 1600 psi on the regulator, if I decide to run higher pressures I no longer have to worry about running a 1.8K burst disc as there is over a 2:1 safety margin on all components at 3000 psi in the event of a regulator failure.... Once again, I worked on one end of the valve spring, forcing it over first the shank of a 17/64" drill, tapping on it with a hammer, and then switching to a 9/32" drill bit and repeating.... Once I had the ID of the spring increased to 9/32", I tempered it in an oven at 450 degrees for 1/2 hour to relieve the stresses, and drilled out the spring seat to 9/32 for increased flow into the valve....



In addition, the valve stem is slimmed to 0.112" and the valve throat is drilled out to 0.234".... The exhaust port is angled 20 degrees and smoothed out with a Dremel so that the smallest point is at the exit, where it measures 0.166", the same diameter as the transfer port.... The valve is bored out inside for extra volume, but mostly to ease the flow past the head of the valve poppet.... In addition, the threads are shortened to 0.3" on both halves.... The front end of the extended valve is drilled to 1/2" back to where the milled flat is for the trigger screw, and then behind that it is about 3/8" back to the valve seat....



This completes the pressure portion of the gun, and I will likely assemble it and set it aside to check for leaks as I work on the hammer, spring, and RVA group.... plus shortening the stock to miss the HPA tank....

Bob