I received two new Ninja SHP Pro 13 CI / 3000 psi tank and regulator combos the other day, and just had the opportunity to examine them in detail.... The "SHP" designation means Super High Pressure, and the "Pro" designation indicates they have the new 360* rotation collar that allows you to orient the fill nipple and gauge wherever you want.... They are advertised as 1100 psi output, user adjustable down to 950 psi by the removal of three 0.004" shims, and come with an excellent instruction sheet.... The new bonnet has two O-rings to seal the ASA output.... You will require an 8-32 Allen wrench and a 2" long 8-32 screw to remove the bonnet to change the shims, and the 8-32 wrench also allows you to rotate the aluminum collar.... Note that this new regulator uses three 8-32 screws, rather than the two 10-32 screws of the earlier model, and further, the gauge and fill nipple are 180* apart rather than 90*, plus the gauge is a much smaller one.... The new regulator is 0.10" longer than the previous model without the 360* rotation adjustment, but still significantly shorter than a JDS regulator.... Here is what it looks like disassembled....



Before loosening any of the setscrews, to either rotate the collar to change the orientation, or to remove the bonnet, MAKE SURE THE TANK IS EMPTY.... Drain the tank completely until no more air comes out, and then double check by depressing the pin valve in the middle of the ASA output and make sure no air escapes.... To change the orientation, simply slack off the three setscrews in the aluminum collar and rotate the tank/regulator assembly to where you want it relative to the ASA output and then snug up the screws again.... The aluminum collar is retained on the regulator body by a coiled snap ring arrangement and is NOT designed to be user removable.... I would NOT remove the collar or disturb the retaining ring, as once pressurized that ring appear to be keeping the collar on the regulator body.... I did not disturb it to check, and I'm sure the setscrews add strength, but I wouldn't want to chance it....

To remove the bonnet, remove the three setscrews completely, insert the 2" long 8-32 screw to give you some leverage to unscrew the bonnet, and loosen it slightly.... Once you can turn it by hand, REMOVE THE 8-32 SCREW or you will damage the male thread on the aluminum collar when you unscrew the bonnet.... The pin valve will normally stay inside the bonnet, I removed it to show you what it looks like.... The return spring for it is inside the piston, and is easy to lose, so don't do that!.... The piston is an updated version, having a taper on the inlet end, and two O-rings on the outlet end.... However, it is dimensionally identical to the older model, and is interchangeable with it.... There were eleven 0.032" thick Belleville washers (disc springs) installed, and three 0.004" thick shims, arranged as follows:

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The two Bellevilles against the shoulder on the piston were black instead of silver, but measured the same thickness.... I do not know if they have the same spring rate, however.... According to Ninja, removing all three shims reduces the setpoint of the regulator to 950 psi from 1100.... When I tested the output pressure of the regulator (with two gauges) I got 1200-1230 psi.... The gauges both have 100 psi increments on a 270* scale, and agreed within 30 psi.... I also did some limited experimenting using the piston, shims and Bellevilles from the new SHP regulator in an old Ninja body I had, and found that the setpoint was higher at 1400 psi.... I also removed the three shims and substituted one more 0.032" (black) Belleville (for a total of 12) and in the old regulator body I got 1700 psi.... That would be too high for a 1.8K burst disc, you would likely blow the disc, especially if the tank warmed up after filling.... When I put that assembly into the SHP regulator, the pressure was 200 psi lower, and measured 1500-1530 psi (with my two gauges).... That is about maximum to not keep blowing the 1.8K burst disc, although it may still fail from fatigue, and I'm 99% sure Ninja would not approve of this modification.... The twelve 0.032" Bellevilles I used were oriented this way....

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No shims were used, and if anyone tries this, I would advise you to proceed slowly and with caution as if your particular regulator has slightly different tolerances, and/or if the 1.8K burst disc is on the low side of its tolerance range.... the disc is likely to fail and scare the heck out of you.... That just means it's doing it's job, but I can guarantee you, you will jump!.... NEVER change out the low side 1.8K burst disc for one of a higher rating, as the rotating aluminum collar attachment may be overstressed, and I wouldn't want to be near one if the bonnet/collar assembly blew off the end of the regulator body....

In summary, I really like the new Ninja SHP Pro Regulator.... It is nearly as compact as the older model, and the ability to rotate the gauge and fill fitting to clear the gun is a major plus.... The two I received were 1200 psi, not the 1100 advertised, but that actually pleases me.... Whether other ones would be the same as mine, as advertised, or even a lower pressure I don't know.... I purchased these to build a new QB79, and since the hammer spring on a QB is capable of handling about 1200 psi they should be ideal for that purpose.... Ninja, incidently, sell service kits for all their regulators....

Bob