What is the latest preferred method...wet or dry?
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What is the latest preferred method...wet or dry?
Wet patches first (goo gone is what I use) followed up with dry patches until clean. Not sure this is the latest method, or even the recommended method, but it works for me.
X2
I usually clean the barrel of every gun I get (new or pre-enjoyed), and every 500-600 shots thereafter.
Better quality pellets leave less residue, so use the best you can to help both consistancy and cleanliness...
Over the years as I learn more about barrel conditioning my barrel cleaning technique has completely changed.
Currently I'm using the VFG system simply because it's a nice easy product to use and it is the recommended system by the big 4.
As I understand it the microscopic pores and scratches in the barrel get filled up with worked lead as you shoot. This is barrel conditioning. The surface of this plated lead is lumpy with the lumps occurring on the trailing edge of the scratch, hole or pore. A good cleaning regime should buff off the lumps but leave the filling.
Using an alkaline degreaser such as fantastic 409 etc strips away all of the lubricant sheen and actually promotes lead galling and streaking until a new film is deposited. So other than the initial cleaning I don't use anything that will leave a barrel squeeky clean.
With the VFG system you screw a felt on a tiny adapter and using the rod or pull through you work a felt back and forth which polishes away the lumps leaving a smooth coating. If the barrel needs a better than average scrub there is a VFG Superintensive felt.
What about the particulars with cleaning CO2 powered rigs?
I don't know that I have read or seen anything personally which would make me differ from what I posted earlier for C02, HPA, PCP or springer.
What I can say from being inside a lot of C02 guns is that most people don't lubricate enough (at all). That tiny spec of oil on the top of the C02 bulb...or even the occasional bulb would go along way
Would you have a link Sean on the VFG system?
Jeremy
http://www.******care.com/ini_start.htm
edit...haha Eric's special spell check is changing the link. Insert
w
e
a
p
o
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in place of the stars
I buy mine from cibles ebay store
Duke
Well hopefully the lubricant is of such a grade that it shouldn't cause the seals to swell but what it does do is forms an airbarrier so the incorporated softeners don't evaporate. Most seals now are nitrile or other synthetics and they have various amounts of softeners incorporated into them to bring them to the required durometer and they do evaporate and that causes seal shrinkage, hardening and leaks.
I use only silicone oil or #1 synthetic sewing machine oil because they are completely compatible with all modern seals and they are so readily available now.
More importantly what I've observed is the contact face of the poppet valve against it's "rubber" seal face. On a gun that has obviously received some lubrication the groove on the seal face will be clean and well defined. On a gun that has never been lubricated that groove will be three times as wide and fuzzy looking under magnification. The friction of the rubber is obviously sticking the raised ridge of the poppet wherever it lands and the tiny amount of lubricant allows it to slide cleanly into it's track.
I personally think that a dot of lubricant that is pin head sized on the tip of the c02 bulb would be plenty once it get vaporized and blown into the gun.
cheers for the link Sean.
I always seem to forget about cibbles, I should have checked there first